Professional Prototype

To present a professional prototype we recommend the following guidelines and tips to finish the wire and plywood:
-we suggest limiting the parts to black and/or white, or one colour to accentuate the form. If you are going to use a colour contrast it with black or white.

-wire should be cleaned, to remove wax and grease
-plywood should be sanded, and edges all softened to eliminate splintering and paint building up. One millimetre radius is preferable.


Wire powder coated
-should only be powder coated, if you are confident that the powder coater you outsource this to, will deliver on time.

-if powder coated, it is best to advise them where they will hang it from, as there is often a very small area left without any coating due to the hanger.

-black and white are the most common colours that powder coaters use, and often will give you the quickest turn around on your parts.
-there are many different whites and blacks available, so you should source a colour card to research what works best for your design. visit: http://www.dulux.com.au/specifier/our-brands/dulux-powder-coatings/powder-coatings-colour-%281%29/standard-colour-card-range

Wire spray painted
-you can paint your wire parts using spray paints purchased from hardware or model shops.
-wire should be rubbed down with scotchbrite pads and etch primed prior to the top coat, for a hard wearing result.
-you should practice on spare sample parts to refine your technique.
-if you are to spray in the open air, like a back yard, it is best to elevate your wire, and create a stand to make it easy to paint the wire at once. If it is complex to spray at once, then paint it in two sessions, but planning is essential.
-painting outdoors, it is best to paint down wind with the appropriate respiratory mask, goggles and gloves.
-be mindful of overspray
-follow the instructions on the can, to reduce the chance of a dry, dripping, or orange peeled coat.

Plywood painted
-you can paint your plywood parts using spray paints purchased from hardware or model shops.
-plywood should be sanded with a 360 grit sandpaper for a smooth finish, and then vacuumed (ideally with a brush head) to remove the sawdust. Alternatively you can use a sticky pad to remove the dust.
-plywood should ideally have an undercoat to seal the timber to make it easier to get an even coverage on your top coat.
-you should practice on spare sample parts to refine your technique.
-if you are to spray in the open air, like a back yard, it is best to elevate your plywood, and create a stand to make it easy to paint at once. If it is complex to spray at once, then paint it in two sessions, but planning is essential.
-painting outdoors, it is best to paint down wind with the appropriate respiratory mask, goggles and gloves.
-be mindful of overspray
-follow the instructions on the can, to reduce the chance of a dry, dripping, or orange peeled coat.
-think about what type of paint will work best with plywood, and how it will wear in its environment.
-think about drying times of different paints. Enamel can be great, but slow drying, and releases fumes, which if left indoor, could cause head aches. Acrylic may not be as hard wearing, but will be quicker drying and will release far less paint fumes.
-you can also brush or roll your paint on, which can reduce the paint fumes, but will be far more difficult to maintain an even coverage. (We don't want to see brush or overlapping marks.

Plywood waxed or oiled
-your plywood parts could be left in their natural colour, highlighting the natural grain.
-there are many different types of waxes and oils, we suggest you research what will give the best results.
-most waxes/oils are wiped on using a rag. Source the correct type of material to limit fluff being caught in timber splinters.
-some oils can be brushed on, and again should be tested.

-Always, read the instructions in full prior to even testing your sample parts. Plan ahead and don't rush, as a good finish will take time.